Bruges, Belgium

December 13, 2009 by Scott Ellis · Leave a Comment 

Bruges, Belgium: CHOCOLATE CRUSH

I can honestly tell you that there is definitely some chemical reaction that happens to a girl when she eats chocolate. It’s a soothing, zen-like breath of richness that creates a moment of inner peace. It’s so good that we go back, over and over, for more with no regard to the amount of additional sit-ups or minutes on the treadmill we have added to our life. For that one minute, calories do not count and we are one with the candy.

One of the best parts of traveling to a new place is trying the food. I am a self-proclaimed “foodie” and I love sweets. So, when I was asked to cover a story about Belgian chocolates in Bruges, Belgium (www.bruge.be), I prepared myself for a real chocolate crush.

I flew into Brussels after a few glorious days in Spain. The Brussels airport is super easy to navigate as this entire city caters to the business traveler. The airport is located about 20 minutes outside the center Brussels, so you will likely either grab a taxi or a train to get to where you have to go. For only 3 EUR I opted for the train to Brussels Midi Station where I could then pick up the EuroRail train that would take me the rest of the way to Bruges.

JET SET TIP! Do yourself a favor and purchase your train ticket at the station in Brussels. I purchased my EuroRail ticket online before I left the US and it was mailed to my home the next day. I paid a hefty $38 charge for that convenience and it would have been just as easy to get my ticket at the station. Also, in some countries there is a real difference between 1st and “economy” class on trains. However, there is really no difference in Belgium. So, save your money so that you can buy more chocolate once you get there!

The train pulled into the station at Bruges around 10:30pm and I have to say that it was very quiet. There were only 4 or 5 other people with me on the train, so I was a little nervous walking out of that train station. And then, I met Bruges.

I walked out onto the cobblestone path to a line of Mercedes Taxis that were there waiting to whisk travelers into the gated city. I remember fidgeting though my bags in the back seat of the car and suddenly just looked up as we passed into the main square. Even through the dark night this small medieval city sparkled. The cobblestone streets and the golden statues glistened in the warm glow of the street lights. And that is where my romance with Bruges began.

I was excited to check into The Pand Hotel, a boutique property located on a tree lined street called Pandreitje. Housed in an 18th Century Carriage house, it feels more like a private residence than a hotel. My room was on the first floor which could be reached by a very tiny elevator or a very narrow winding staircase. Kind of a pain to get my luggage up and down, but charming and well suited for the surroundings.

Now it’s time to get serious. This city is known for two things… beer and chocolate. Since I am not really a drinker, my challenge became clear. I was on a mission to find the best chocolates this town had to offer and I was not leaving until I had my fill.

My mission started with a trip out to the Carline Chocolate Factory which is only about a 20 minute taxi ride out of town. Carline is a family run factory and I was given a quick tour and then we started sampling! There were chocolate truffles, champagne white chocolate truffles, herb infused chocolates, chocolates with sea salt… there was just so many of them! Oh, did I mention that they also make their own marzipan? Yum.

So, what makes Belgian chocolate so much better than other chocolates? The proof is actually in the fat. Belgians only use pure cocoa butter in their chocolates. There is not a hint of vegetable oil and zero preservatives. They are also super careful about the percentage of cocoa used in their concoctions. The people at Carline use only 70% cocoa in their chocolate recipes to create that mild, milky flavor they are known for.

Back in Bruges, I found The Chocolate Line Located in Simon Stevenplien, this little chocolate shop is home to Belgian’s version of Emeril Lagasse… Dominiqe Persoone.
Dominiqe is known for his crazy chocolate recipes – from chocolate covered cauliflower to his must-try chocolate tequila shot! Everything in the store is eye candy and it will have you thinking about just how much of the stuff you can fit into your carry-on! I got a kick out of the chocolate lipstick and the bizarre sniffing chocolates. Yes, that is what I said and yes… it does go up your nose.

My next stop was a tea room that was said to have the best hot chocolate experience on the face of the earth. De Proeverie Tea Room is a tiny little café with a very small window and doorway. If you didn’t know this place was here, you would walk right past it. I took a seat at one of the tiny tables and placed my order; a warm chocolate and a scone. What was delivered to me was a cup of warm milk with a small bowl of melted chocolate. The waitress told me to pour the chocolate into the milk and stir. (Cue chemical reaction mentioned at top of blog) The scone was served with fresh strawberry jam and a plate of whipped cream. Did I mention that each plate was also garnished with a few chocolates? (Cue chemical reaction again)

After a restful night, I woke up the next morning ready for a nice long walk around the city. My first stop was the Basilica of the Holy Blood; a small grey building snugly located in the back corner of Burg Square. Legend has it that after the Crucifixion, Joseph of Arimathea wiped blood from the body of Christ and preserved the cloth. The relic remained in the Holy Land until the Second Crusade, when the King of Jerusalem, Baldwin III, gave it to his brother-in-law, Count of Flanders Diederik van de Elzas. The count arrived with it in Bruges on April 7, 1150 and placed it in a chapel that he built in this very square. It is a must see and it is sure to bring tears to your eyes.

I also walked the many canals, stopping into the Church of Our Lady where I visited one of the only Michelangelo’s that exist outside of Italy. Be sure to also check out Holy Savior Cathedral which has hundreds of pieces of art and some of the most beautiful stained glass I have ever seen… so, take some time and just walk around.

There is a legend in Bruges that says that if you see swans swimming in the canals, that you will experience love in your lifetime. I definitely fell for Bruges and walked away completely smitten with Belgium. I found the people to be friendly, travel easy and the food yummy. Was it the swans or was it just that chemical reaction to all the chocolate? Who cares… Consider it Crushed.

Lori

As a producer for the Travel Channel, I am afforded the luxury of traveling the world. For most road warriors, traveling for work usually means budget hotels and long days in conference rooms. For me, it means checking out the best, the brightest, most amazing places this world has to offer. My job is to do the dirty work so that travelers like you can just relax, unwind and explore.

In my new Jetsetter’s Guide, exclusive to CityCrush.com, I open my little black book to give you a quick glimpse of what I found to be the best of the best from my latest travels. I look to my fellow jetsetters to add comments, tweet and send updates so that we can CRUSH this world one city at a time.

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